The SUV performed exceptionally well and never gave up even on the toughest of terrains. It’s a wonderful vehicle.
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Late post alert!
Leh Circuit done in 2021 August. I was contemplating for a long to write this travelogue but somehow was not able to do so in our daily life grid. So, finally sharing this wonderful trip that we had.
Leh Ladakh circuit was on my life bucket list for a long time and when I was based in Delhi I missed it doing in 2014, as I got the opportunity to return to Northeast after 14 years of staying in Delhi to join a reputed telecom company. So that dream remained on the back burner until when finally just post covid in 2021. I decided on embarking for this trip, now the challenge was to find a companion as I wanted to do this circuit in my own car from Guwahati. All my friends and immediate family refused to go with me so I turned towards my cousin elder brother Debajeet Deka based in Hyderabad who readily agreed and we started making preparations for this mega trip.
Vehicle Preparation
Got servicing done, wheel alignment, also carried all the fluids Engine oil, coolant, brake oil, PS oil, fuses, all belts fan, ps, Jerry can, carried puncture repair kit, Tyre inflator.
Own Preparation
Bought winter wear, gum boots, extra large duffle bag from decathlon, necessary medicines, oxygen cylinders, butane burner to cook tea, maggi, etc, food bag with all the necessary food items which can be had on the go.
Day1: 13/08/21
Guwahati to Darbhanga 776 KMS
We started at 5:30am from Home then stopped for breakfast at a popular restaurant Pranita in Nalbari. Just when nearing Barpeta Road the Thar abruptly lost power and started emitting a lot of black smoke I was aghast as knew the Intercooler Pipe must have cracked as that part is a major culprit in the CRDE engine. So, somehow we made it to Bongaigaon Mahindra ASC the next major town. Now you will not find this part in most of the Mahindra ASCs but God was with us for this entire trip and I will specify this statement more strongly as the travelogue unfolds the Intercooler pipe part was available and it was quickly replaced, now with greater enthusiasm we were back on the Road. We stopped after crossing Siliguri to have our home-packed roti and mutton lunch by the highway and then continued further until we reached our hotel in Darbhanga by 10:15pm with tea breaks. That was the end of our first day of this mega trip.
At Pranita Restaurant start of our mega trip, yours’s truly with Debajeet Deka.
Day 2: 14/08/21
Darbhanga to Kannauj 749 KMS
We started at 5am from our hotel and faced very heavy rains until we crossed Bihar and up to U.P border after crossing over to U.P we started to cover time fast in comparison to Bihar and by 04:00pm we reached Lucknow. Now I being a foodie and generally with a weakness towards North Indian food I wanted to make this trip experiencing both new food and terrains, so in Lucknow, my objective was to try out the famous Tunde Kebabs with parantha in Tunde Kebabi in old Lucknow. Post that we headed for Kannauj which is 120 Kms and checked in at our hotel by 9 pm.
At Tunde Kebabi
Day3: 15/08/21
Kannauj to Goraya 777 Kms
As usual, we started at 5am from Kannauj to Goraya in Punjab a small town between Ludhiana and Jalandhar. Early morning starts in a long trip are very important as many miles can be covered due to low traffic plus maintaining discipline and setting each day’s target destination is very important, especially in the plains. This was Independence day and my food target for the day was to have the famous parathas in Murthal in Amrik Sukhdev. We used to go for weekend drives there during my Delhi days. We reached there at lunchtime as we made up a good time crossing all expressways Taj, Yamuna and EPE. There was a huge rush in Amrit Sukhdev due to 15th August and there was a sea of people, all covid protocols were gone in the. After having a sumptuous lunch we headed for Goraya and reached our hotel by 8pm.
EPE Delhi Bypass Toll Gate
Day4: 16/08
Kannauj to Patnitop 318 Kms
This day we were a bit apprehensive as there was strict checking going on at Jammu border at the Lakhanpur toll gate for RTPCR tests we were carrying RTPCR reports from Guwahati but was already 4 days old report but as I had earlier mentioned that God was with us and our trip was blessed as luck would have it J&K Govt lifted the checking from that day and although we were stopped at the toll we were allowed to go without checking. Hurray so were finally entering the hills today, as we were about to enter Jammu city one of my very good friend from Delhi Manav Nehru is from Jammu and I am very close to his family so although my friend is based in Dubai I called up his father out of courtesy, his father insisted that we visit their home and have lunch I couldn’t say no and after 4 days on the road the home cooked Kashmiri food was yummy so kind of uncle and aunty whom I adore a lot also got to meet my friends sister who was home at that time. After spending quality time there we headed for Patnitop and checked in at our hotel by 5pm.
With my friend Manav Nehru’s parents in their Jammu home.
Day5: 17/08
Patnitop to Srinagar 173 Kms
Since this day we didn’t have to cover much distance we started from our hotel at 8am we were very happy that we will be entering Kashmir today also felt great that we were driving from the Northeast to the top of our country lot of thoughts about the situation in Srinagar but to our delight felt very safe and reached our hotel Clarks Inn by noon. We decided that we will park our Thar in the hotel parking only giving it some well-deserved rest and took an auto to Dal lake for the usual boating and returned to our hotel after having dinner outside to retire for the day. Next day we have to tackle the Zojila Pass which I wanted to do for a very long time.
Dal Lake soaking in the evening beauty.
Day6: 18/08
Srinagar to Kargil 202 Kms
We started early so as to avoid the traffic in Zozila Pass and comfortably crossed the mighty Zojila. I have huge respect in my heart for all the mountain passes, on the way we stopped at Kargil War Memorial to give our respects to the Kargil War Martyrs. I have tremendous respect towards our Armed Forces. We reached our resort a very beautiful property overlooking the hills by noon and had a relaxing lunch in the resort itself. In the evening we booked a cab with the cab driver as the guide to show us the Indo-Pakistan Border with the last border village named Hunderman. It was a unique experience as the village was very remote and situated just at the Indo Pak border with views of the Pakistani side. Returned to Kargil town after the tour packed some kebabs and back to our resort.
Early morning start from Srinagar, basking under the sunrise
Tackling the mighty Zojila Pass
Paying our tributes to the brave martyrs
The saying on the wall expresses more than enough.
Our resort in Kargil with the awesome views of the Kargil hills.
Indo Pak border view from Hunderman, the last village on the Indian side.
Day7: 19/08
Kargil to Leh 216 Kms
We were very excited as we will reach Leh today on the way we were enjoying the views of the barren landscapes until we got a call from one of our elder cousin brothers who work in NEEPCO asking us to visit two of his colleagues who were on deputation in Alchi 70 Kms before Leh where there is hydropower project of NEEPCO and we jumped to this opportunity as we will be able to visit the Alchi Choskhor Monastery which is quite famous in the region. We were treated to another home-cooked sumptuous lunch at our brothers colleagues place who were from Assam.
After lunch we visited the Monastery which was very beautiful and went ahead to see the dam the views were breathtaking. After a lot of chats we finally bid goodbye to both the gentleman who were elated to meet us from Assam and more excited that we have driven down all the way from Guwahati. On the way we stopped at Pathar Sahab Gurudwara to take the blessings and headed for Leh, reached Leh by 5pm and checked in at our hotel which was a new property in one of the residential areas in Leh town. After freshening up went to see the Shanti Stupa and returned to our hotel to retire for the day. Our excitement level was at its peak that finally we were living our dream of doing the Leh circuit.
Alchi Monastery the campus is very serene and beautiful.
The Hydropower dam river view just a few steps from the Alchi Monastery.
Shanti Stupa looks majestic at night.
Day8: 20/08
Leh local sightseeing
Debajeet da was not feeling well and had signs of AMS so he decided to rest in the hotel while I went out alone to explore Leh town, unfortunately, the Leh War Memorial was closed that day so, I did some shopping for my family back home and went back to the hotel in the evening as it was Muharram that day and the streets were crowded.
Day9: 21/08
Leh to Hunder via Khardungla Pass 125 Kms
Started early as usual so as to avoid the rush in Khardungla were pretty excited scaling up to the Pass did some customary pictures didn’t stay for long there and descended onward to Hunder where in we checked in at a newly constructed resort given a reference by our Leh hotel owner who was very helpful. In the evening after taking some rest we went to Nubra Valley but found it to be very crowded with people taking rides on the double hump camels. Returned to our resort after having some refreshments on the way.
With Leh Hotel owner who was very helpful and was a media photographer who used to work in NDTV
Thar atop the Khardungla Pass
Customary pic with BRO stone in the pass.
Double hump camels in Nubra Valley, didn’t ride them though.
Thar at the parking of Nubra with the bikes didn’t come across any other AS registered vehicles in the entire trip, gives a sense of pride.
Our resort in Hunder awesome property we were one of the first guests.
Day10: 22/08
Hunder to Pangong Tso 240 Kms
This was again an exciting day as one of the important objectives of the trip was going to be fulfilled Pangong Lake crossing the mighty Changla La Pass which I found the most difficult Pass among all the passes covered in this trip. We reached Pangong in the evening when there was still daylight and the first view of the lake took away all our tiredness. Enjoyed the views of the lake till it was dark and checked in at one of the shacks which were very basic.
After scaling Changla La.
This pic will always be special and takes away all the tiredness after the first sight of Pangong Tso lake.
The best seat to view the Pangong Tso
Day11: 23/08
Pangong to Sarchu 408 Kms
This was going to be a tough day as had to cross 5 Passes Changla La, Nakeela, Lachung La, Baralacha La, Tanglang La, then the Gata Loops and the end just before reaching Sarchu due to road construction there was very heavy dust on the road similar to a desert with very thick layers of dust, I had to use all my auxiliary lights of the Thar as visibility went down to almost zero. Finally, we checked in at our tent accommodation for the night. It was very cold in Sarchu and I experienced the coldest night in Sarchu in our entire Ladakh circuit. In fact, before sleeping after dinner I started the ignition of the Thar for 15 mins and then covered the front engine bay with a car cover which I was carrying so that the heat is conserved.
Day12: 24/08
Sarchu to Manali 177 Kms
In the morning after a hearty breakfast, I cranked the Thar with some apprehensions but it came to life on a single crank, one Force Traveller was struggling thanks to the exercise done the previous night with the Thar, we started for Manali the drive was a breeze thanks to the Rohtang tunnel we were in Manali by 3pm and checked into a great property in old Manali. Finally, our Ladakh circuit came to an end and from tomorrow our onward journey to home will start. I went out to the Manali market by hiring a Royal Enfield Bullet to take a ride after so many days of driving as I enjoy riding the same as driving and own two Royal Enfield bikes Standard 350 and a recently acquired Himalayan Scram 411.
Day13: 25/08
Manali to Chandigarh 271 Kms
We started by 8 am from Manali as today we will be entering the plains and will be staying in Chandigarh at my friend’s official guest house fellow Bhpian Vikram Singh handle Nomad Wanderer, we reached Chandigarh by 7pm and Vikram Ji came to meet us and coincidentally another Bhpian Amlan da from Assam was also in the same guest house as he had come to Delhi and drove down to Chandigarh to meet Vikram Ji, we had a mini Team Bhp meet We chatted away till late at the night about our trip, cars, future trips before retiring for the night.
Day14: 26/08
Chandigarh to Lucknow 803 Kms
This was going to be a long day but still, we started at 8am as all good roads on the way I wanted to fulfill one more of my food wish list and have lunch at Al Bake one of my favorite restaurants in South Delhi, New Friends Colony the Shawrma rolls are to die for. We reached Lucknow and checked in at our hotel by 12am. End of a long drive.
Day15: 27/08
Lucknow to Darbhanga 626 Kms
Our earlier plan was to target Siliguri and we had set our Gmap for the same but when the drive was getting strenuous post late evening we decided to stay back in Darbhanga in a newly opened property which had opened that day only and we were given a special treatment by the hotel staff as were one of the first guest’s.
Day16: 28/08
Darbhanga to Bongaigaon 594 Kms
This day also we had taken Guwahati Home as the target but due to poor road conditions and traffic in the chicken neck before Siliguri also we didn’t want to disturb our families by arriving very late in the night we decided to halt at Cygnett Bongaigaon.
Day17: 27/08
Bongaigaon to Guwahati Home 184 Kms
We were very happy and at the same time excited to be finally meeting our families after 17 days on the road and to have completed this Once in a Lifetime Trip without any issues or setbacks. The Thar performed exceptionally well and never gave up even on the toughest of terrains, it’s a wonderful vehicle. Thanks to our families for the support without whom we can’t be away from home for such long times.
Keyword: Driving my Mahindra Thar CRDe from Guwahati to Ladakh & back in 17 days