As we departed from Tabo, we crossed the Tabo bridge and soon found ourselves on the most treacherous & adventurous stretch of road encountered thus far.
BHPian ADI_77 recently shared this with other enthusiasts.
I would like begin this travelogue with this captivating photograph, brimming with emotions, unforgettable memories, and so many untold stories. It depicts the triumphant moment when as a team we stood atop the summit, a determination to drive to Spiti. It represented the culmination of twelve days of relentless driving across diverse terrains, where we delved into the heart of untouched nature, experienced vibrant cultures, savored interesting cuisines and so much more. So let us embark on this journey through ‘FLASHBACK’ mode.
The setting:
In 2021 we embarked on a thrilling adventure to Ladakh with ‘Blacky’ – my TATA Harrier XZ. Conquering the rugged terrains and overcoming challenges, we forged an unbreakable bond. It was an exhilarating experience with some lifetime memories that left me craving for more.
As the year 2023 rolled in, ‘Blacky’ celebrated her third birthday in March, reminding me that her time had come for yet another epic journey.
As the idea of embarking on a road trip to Spiti settled in my mind, a rush of excitement surged through my veins, giving me goosebumps. Known to be a thrilling escapade for travel enthusiasts, the Spiti circuit promised a mixed bag of experiences.
It would take us through some of the most treacherous roads in the world, amidst ever-changing weather conditions. The thought of potentially encountering a landslide sent a shiver down my spine.But it wasn’t just the unpredictable roads that concerned me. The region’s remote and challenging terrain posed another set of difficulties. The oxygen levels could drop dramatically, leaving us gasping for breath. The endless list of “what ifs” played on my mind. What if we got stranded in the middle of nowhere? What if we couldn’t find help? Yet, deep down, I knew that these risks were part of what made the Spiti circuit so alluring. the thought of jagged mountain peaks, vast expanses of barren desert, and crystal-clear rivers was irresistible. With every passing day, my anticipation grew stronger. I imagined the wind in my hair as we navigated the winding roads, the thrill of overcoming each obstacle that lay in our path. The journey would test our mettle, challenging us physically and mentally. But it was precisely this adventure that we sought—the chance to break free from the ordinary and embrace the extraordinary. So as a team we were all set to drive to Spiti, knowing that this would make for some unforgettable memories.
With the date set 24th May, anticipation filled the air as we counted down the days. We spent countless hours fine-tuning our preparations, ensuring that ‘Blacky’ was in perfect shape to conquer the rugged terrains that lay ahead.
Day 1: Ahmedabad to Kotputli:
Setting off with an early start at 5:20 AM from our home in Ahmedabad, our adventure began. By 9:30 AM, we had already crossed Udaipur.
The weather was on our side, with intermittent clouds shielding us from the scorching sun. Driving along NH48, a familiar route I had traversed countless times on my way to Jaipur, felt somewhat monotonous. The only notable changes over the years were the heavy truck traffic and occasional unexpected diversions before reaching Jaipur. However, one thing that remained constant was the sheer joy of leaving behind a dry state and entering the vibrant realm of Rajasthan (a sentiment only understood by those hailing from Gujarat).
As we continued our journey, we enjoyed a working breakfast, savouring the sandwiches the wifey had packed for the road. Approaching Jaipur, the weather took an unexpected turn. A gentle drizzle greeted us, offering a refreshing change, the rain accompanied us on our drive until we reached Kotputli. After a long tiring & uneventful day of highway driving, we finally arrived at our first stop for the night, Hotel Highway Prince. We had booked a deluxe family room for the night.
Day 2: Kotputli to Kasauli:
We kicked off our day’s journey at 8:30 AM, filled with anticipation for a smooth and straightforward drive. The highlight of our drive was undoubtedly the newly constructed Trans Haryana Expressway, NH152D. However, after a minor delay due to ongoing road digging at Kotputli, we found ourselves on the NH152D. What amazed us was the lack of traffic along the entire 232-kilometer stretch until the Ambala bypass. It felt as if we were driving on a runway. We engaged ‘Blacky’s’ cruise control and zipped along. Occasionally, we had to reduce our speed to 100 kmph where speed cameras were positioned. The NH152D has well-designed rest areas including clean toilets, fuel bunks & eating joints on both sides.
We soon left the expressway and entered Punjab, where beautiful Sunflower farms welcomed us on both sides. Interestingly, most of the cars we passed had oversized tires, regardless of their size, reflecting the Punjabi Swag.
Our lunch stop was “Haldirams” on Zirakpur road where we couldn’t resist ordering the ‘Cholle Bhature’, Hereon we continued our journey on the iconic NH05, also known as the Trans Himalayan Highway, which would lead us all the way up to the hills. As we ascended towards Kasauli, we passed through the “Welcome to Devbhoomi Himachal” gate.
The NH05 stretch is adorned with numerous shops selling juices, jams, wines, pickles (HPMC), and plenty of liquor stores. After a pleasant two-hour drive from Zirakpur, we finally arrived at our resort “The Fern Surya.” Like many hotels in this region, the parking and approach to the hotel involved a steep climb. We had reserved their best premium category room, which was truly amazing, featuring a sit-out area overlooking the lush green valley. The weather was perfect, and we decided to end the day by indulging in some wine with delicious food.
Day 3: Kasauli to Narkanda:
As we woke up in the morning, my son informed me that according to the latest image from IMD, Shimla and the surrounding areas were covered in clouds. There was a possibility of encountering rain and even landslides on our way.
As the captain of the trip, I decided not to dwell on the discussion and instead encouraged everyone to keep moving forward. I reminded my son of the old saying, “Never measure the size of the mountain until you reach the top.” After a satisfying breakfast, we resumed our journey on NH05. Approaching Solan, we encountered heavy traffic jams. The constant start-and-stop motion while climbing uphill was taking a toll on my left leg.
Despite the mixed traffic, we persevered for a two-hour drive and finally arrived in Shimla. The dreaded traffic welcomed us, with numerous trucks, buses, and taxis already queued up. It took us a good hour to exit Shimla and Kufri, but eventually, we found some relief as we cruised towards Narkanda. The picturesque green hills adorned with pine trees, curvy roads, and perfect weather made every mile worth it. Skipping lunch, we reached ‘The Tethys Resort’ in Narkanda around 2:30 PM.
We ordered pizzas and burgers for lunch, which we enjoyed sitting in the open. The weather was pleasantly chilly, and as a backdrop, some of my favourite tracks played, including “Have You Ever See
n the Rain” and some soulful unplugged bollywood music.
We spent rest of the evening exploring the resort, capturing pictures as the sun began to set. Our room was on the top floor, offering breath-taking views of the pines & valley through large windows. In the middle of the night, we were jolted awake by the deafening thunder and the sound of rain relentlessly pounding on the tin roof above us. I lay silently praying, hoping that the rain would diminish and we shall have clear weather the following morning. Our upcoming drive to Kalpa in Kinnaur involved traversing less-than-ideal roads with landslide zones.
Day 4: Narkanda to Kalpa:
Upon waking up we immediately checked the IMD forecast and were relieved to see signs of clear skies. With the intention of an early departure, we hit the road again on NH05. Within just 30 minutes, we found ourselves gliding smoothly on the superbly paved roads, enjoying the lovely curves with pine trees, It felt like I was holding a joystick as ‘Blacky,’ effortlessly cruised along.
We stumbled upon a decent dhaba along the way, where we had the customary breakfast of Aloo Paratha. However, as soon as we entered Kinnaur, the road conditions deteriorated, significantly reducing our speed. It became a challenge to maintain even 30-40 kmph due to the numerous potholes that plagued the roads. The landscape transformed from lush green hills adorned with pine trees to towering rocky mountains as we delved further into Kinnaur.
As we started to climb again, soon we encountered the famous cliff-hanger road, marked by a natural cave-like structure that serves as the gateway to Kinnaur.
This is a famous photo spot , so we proceeded with caution, searching for a safe place to park. After capturing a few clicks, we resumed our journey and faced our first nerve-racking moment. Out of nowhere, a truck suddenly appeared while I was navigating a narrow, slushy road with no clear boundaries. The absence of any protective barrier on the cliff side heightened the tension. With no alternative, I had to reverse and allow the truck to pass. My wife and son got out of the car to guide me, and after a considerable effort, I managed to reverse on the extreme right side, with the mountain wall just a few inches away. It felt like a daring circus stunt, reminiscent of driving in the “maut ka kuva” (well of death). I folded the ORVMs and said a prayer as the truck passed by with a mere whisker of space. Once my wife and son were back inside, they wasted no time in reminding me to drive slowly and carefully, emphasizing the importance of caution.
Our next obstacle was navigating through a location called Nigu Sarai, where the road was scheduled to close for repairs in a mere 15 minutes. We quickly checked Google Maps and felt relieved to discover that we were only 3 Kms away from reaching that point.
The road conditions deteriorated further, transitioning from bad to worse at certain stretches. We encountered marked areas indicating landslide zones with warnings such as “shooting stones – don’t stop.” The blissful memory of the earlier smooth roads seemed distant as we encountered two water crossings, where thick slush threatened to trap ‘Blacky,’ at one point. It truly felt like we had entered 4WD territory. To tackle the challenging terrain, I kept the vehicle in ‘Sport’ mode throughout so that I could get enough power while navigating some steep hairpin bends. After a place called ‘Tapri’ the roads improved and finally we were in BRO territory.
The roads constructed by the Border Roads Organisation (BRO) were exceptionally well-maintained, just as we had experienced in Ladakh.
Driving alongside the majestic Sutlej river we reached the intersection where the road diverged towards Baspa (Sangla, Chitkul) and Rekonpeo-Kaza. Continuing straight, we took a sharp left turn to ascend towards Kalpa.
First, we entered Rekongpeo the HQ of Kinnaur, and then continued climbing for another 9 kms on a steep and narrow but well laid out road to reach Kalpa. This quaint village sat perched high, offering splendid and up-close views of the snow-capped Kinner Kailash mountain. At every turn, the magnificent Kailash peak made its presence felt. We had booked Hotel Kalpa, which required a significant climb and was located near the famous “suicide point.” Our hotel terrace offered breath-taking views of the snow-capped mountains. As the sun set the snow-capped mountains kept changing colours before eventually disappearing in the thick evening mist. It was summer but the temp in the evening was 5*C, we had an early dinner and went off to sleep, as the TV had no channel showing the IPL. Mesmerizing views of Kinner Kailesh from Kalpa.
Day 5: Kalpa-Nako-Gue Village-Tabo:
With high anticipation, we embarked on our journey to cross into Spiti. The morning greeted us with clear skies, and as we loaded our bags back into the car, we couldn’t tear our eyes away from the breath-taking sight of the snow-capped Kinner Kailash range. Bathed in sunlight, the peaks held us mesmerized. Within the next 30 minutes, we descended from Kalpa and were back on track on NH05, with rocky mountains looming on one side. We had to remain vigilant as we encountered scattered fallen stones along the way.
After an hour of driving, we reached a significant milestone in our journey: the ‘Khab Sangam,’ where the Sutluj and Spiti rivers meet. This spot was a must-stop location, surrounded by towering rocky terrain that concealed the winding road ahead. We took a 15-minute break before continuing towards Sumdo, the starting point to Spiti Valley. At Sumdo, we made a stop at the ITBP-run cafeteria, where we enjoyed hot samosas and tea. The cafeteria also showcased the intriguing history of the cloud burst event at Nako and the regiment’s road clearance efforts.
After driving for about an hour from Khab Sangam, we began our ascent towards Nako, encountering numerous hairpin bends reminiscent of the famous Gata Loops in Leh. This section of the road, known as Nako loops, demanded our full attention as we navigated the narrow roads while steadily climbing uphill. It required considerable effort to stay focused and maintain control of the vehicle.
Eventually we reached Nako village at the top, feeling a sense of accomplishment. We decided to take a break and refuel ourselves at the Khos dhaba, where we ordered a quick lunch of rajma chawal and momos. The ‘Helipad’ is just behind this dhaba, we couldn’t get Blacky’ there as the local children were playing cricket. The Helipad offers good views of the sandy mountains all round.
The next highlight of our journey was crossing the highly anticipated “Malingnala.” However, now there’s no water flowing in the nala (stream) and BRO had constructed a road over most of the treacherous sections. The thrill that remained was a narrow stretch of about 50 meters without any boundaries, offering a breath-taking view of the deep gorge below. It was enough to make any co-passenger experience a panic attack while looking down the sheer cliff. We swiftly passed through this section, keeping our nerves intact.
From there, we began descending, and the road ahead became almost non-existent. For the next hour, we had to traverse a dusty and uneven terrain.”Blacky,” constantly wobbled due to the challenging conditions. Despite the bumpy ride, we persevered due to the changing landscape all round which had already started unfolding the magic.
Our next destination was Gue village monastery, renowned for its ancient mummy of a monk that has been preserved for over 500 years. Making a right turn onto a narrow road, we initially encountered a smooth path for the first 2 Kms, however beyond that point, the road deteriorated significantly. The drive to Gue village became quite challenging as the narrow, steep road was plagued with deep potholes. Despite the rough conditions, we were treated to breath-taking views along the way, with a meandering stream flowing through the rugged terrain. Upon reaching our destination, we stepped out of the car only to be greeted by a strong, chilly breeze that made it difficult to even walk around. To add to the peculiarities, I noticed that my iPhone had automatically adjusted its time to China Standard Time. After spending about 15 minutes exploring the area, we decided to head back to NH05. The round trip to Gue village covered a distance of approximately 20 kms, and the journey took us nearly an hour. The road from hereon is pretty straight and once you reach Hurling the road open up to the vast valley, with lovely views of the mountains all round, we kept driving for another 20 mins to reach our stop for the night Tabo. This is a small village that has many home stays, however we were lucky to get a room at Maitreya Residency which is the only good hotel in Tabo. They also have a Café which has a sit out and serves good fast-food options. There wasn’t much to explore in Tabo, except for the monastery which happened to be within walking distance from our hotel. This quaint town resembled Nubra Valley in Leh, with towering rocky mountains encircling it. The hotel we stayed at boasted a unique star gazing experience, so we eagerly prepared ourselves for the event by dressing warmly and layering up, as the temperature had dropped to a chilly 2 degrees Celsius. We were informed at the last moment that due to cloudy weather conditions, the star gazing activity had to be cancelled. Disappointed we decided to save this experience for our next trip.
Day 6: Tabo–Dhankar-Chicham-Kee-Kaza:
As we departed from Tabo, we crossed the Tabo bridge and soon found ourselves on the most treacherous & adventurous stretch of road encountered thus far. This section was extremely narrow, allowing only one vehicle to pass at a time. To the left, the Spiti river flowed vigorously, while to the right, towering sand mountains loomed, occasionally shedding stones onto the road. The absence of proper pavement resulted in a rough, rubble-filled pathway with visible tire marks.
It was crucial for me to stay focused, while my wife & son kept a vigilant eye out for any oncoming traffic, ensuring we stopped in advance to allow each other to pass. It felt like playing a game where the levels grew increasingly difficult and challenging. I was constantly driving in second and first gears. At times, we encountered stretches where the Harrier struggled for power and required an extra burst of acceleration. The next hour of driving was certainly not for the faint-hearted, demanding exceptional skills behind the wheel.
Taking a left detour, we embarked on the ascent to Dhankar Monastery. This leg of the journey took us to another level of excitement as we faced a steep climb accompanied by constant curves. The higher we ascended, the more breath-taking the views became.
Before reaching Kaza we decided to veer off the main road and venture onto the banks of the Spiti river. The lure of the ice-cold water and the stunning views beckoned us. As we approached Kaza, a delightful surprise awaited us on the right side—a waterfall designed in such a way that water cascaded out as if from a giant faucet. It felt like a grand water salute, reminiscent of the ceremonial gestures performed for aircrafts on special occasions. This sight served as a warm welcome to the town, and took away some fatigue.
Our accommodations for the next two nights was at ‘Jigme Homestay.’ However, before settling in, I had a pressing task at hand—I needed to find a car wash to rid ‘Blacky’ of the accumulated slush & dirt all over.
We indulged in a satisfying lunch at the highly acclaimed ‘Deyzor’ restaurant located near the bustling main market. Upon entering, we were captivated by its unique decor, resembling a museum. The walls were adorned with intriguing facts about Spiti and adorned with photographs of one of the owners, an ardent adventure enthusiast and cyclist. Adding a touch of charm to the ambiance were two large St Bernards who were lounging outside. The soothing tunes of Pink Floyd playing in the background made for the vibes.
Next up we visited Chicham bridge which is the highest suspension bridge in Asia at an altitude of 13615 Ft, the winding narrow road kept climbing up, as we gained altitude we could sense the lack of oxygen, with tingling around our faces and fingers going numb. The first sight of the bridge was like a DeJa’Vu feeling as I had seen this in so many vlogs. After a few clicks we took a U turn and returned the same way.
On the way back we visited the Kee monastery which is a 8 Kms detour from the mid-point. Once back in Kaza we checked into our homestay, we were allotted a huge family room on the first floor with cosy beds having electric blankets. The dinner was a simple homely meal served in their traditional dining area
Day 7: Kaza-Langza-Komic-Hikkim-Kaza – 45 Kms:
It was a much-needed rest day for us today, considering the early mornings we had experienced throughout our trip. We decided to take it easy and enjoy a leisurely breakfast, while glancing at the cloudy sky with fresh snow on the towering peaks in the distance. Although the sun was somewhat obscured by haze, we felt determined to make the most of the day and embarked on our planned trip. Leaving the NH05 behind as we exited from Kaza, we took a right turn and found ourselves on a well-maintained but winding road. Compared to our previous journey to Chicham, the drive to Langza was relatively effortless, we reached the parking and from there continued to walk to reach the Buddha statue.
Walking downhill towards the statue, we couldn’t ignore the thin oxygen and the cold weather that accompanied us. The altitude made breathing a bit challenging, but we pushed through, knowing that our return journey would require us to climb uphill. Fortunately, there weren’t many people around at this time, allowing us to take our time, capture some pics. Continuing on our circuit, our next stop was Komic, the highest village reachable by a motorable road.
The road to Komic takes you to 15500Ft above the snow peaks.
While there wasn’t much to do there, we were eager to capture some photographs with the village sign. After spending some time in Komic, we headed towards Hikkim, which required us to descend from the lofty heights. The road, however, presented us with a few challenges, as some stretches were broken and uneven. We visited the highest post office in the world.
As we began our return journey towards Kaza, we couldn’t resist exploring the local market upon our arrival. Our lunch stop was “The Himalayan Café”
By evening, the weather took a turn, as the clouds blanketed the sky, casting everything in shades of grey. the locals shared news that the road from Losar to Kunzum La had closed due to intermittent snowfall. This unexpected development left us with no choice but to alter our plans and prepare for the return journey via Shimla the following morning.
Birds eye view of Kaza from 14000Ft:
Day 8: Kaza to Rekongpeo:
Return journeys often tend to be hurried, and this time was no exception. The weather forecast from IMD predicting rain, thunderstorms, and the risk of landslides had been weighing on our minds as we set off on our way back. The skies remained cloudy until Nako, and from there, we encountered rain. Determined to make good time, I continued driving without taking any breaks, eager to reach Rekongpeo by 4:30 PM. With the rain pouring down, our lunch options were limited, and we settled for a quick meal of Maggi noodles. Finally, we arrived at Rekongpeo, where we had pre-booked a stay at the “Wanderers Home Stay” for the night.[h2].
Day 9: Rekongpeo to Kufri:
We awoke the next day to find clear skies. Eager to make the most of the day, we checked out early and embarked on our journey. The drive itself was uneventful, but the scenic beauty surrounding us never failed to captivate. By afternoon, we arrived at our hotel, “The Twin Towers,” which was strategically perched at a height, offering uninterrupted views of the lush green valley below.
Day 10 & 11: Kufri-Jaipur-Ahmedabad:
To avoid the infamous traffic congestion in Shimla, we decided to leave Kufri early, and our strategy proved to be beneficial as we encountered relatively smooth roads. Within a span of two hours, we found ourselves in Kasauli, marking the beginning of the final leg of our journey. The remaining drive mainly comprised highways, with no notable incidents or highlights to mention.
As the ODO kept ticking, we eventually reached Ahmedabad from Jaipur, signaling the conclusion of our highly anticipated Spiti road trip. It felt surreal, as if the adventure had just begun yesterday, and now it had come to an end. The memories we had created along the way, the breath-taking landscapes, and the wonderful experiences would forever remain etched in our hearts.
Keyword: Ahmedabad-Spiti road trip in my Tata Harrier: 12 days of adventure