You'll need metric tools and fastenersIf you're worked mostly on American-made vehicles in the past, you probably have a set of tools that is made up primarily of SAE (inch-based) sockets and wrenches. Classic Beetles have metric fasteners almost everywhere, with the most commonly used sizes being 10,12,13,15, and 17mm. The most notable exception are the bolts that hold the seat belts in place, as this safety feature was a requirement in the United States only.You'll also need larger metric tools when it comes time to work on your Beetle's engine. The dyno pulley on most Beetles is attached with a 19mm bolt, and to remove the flywheel you will need a 36mm or 38mm socket, depending on whether that part is a factory original or an aftermarket upgrade. Replacement nuts and bolts will also have to be purchased in metric sizes, again with the exception of the seat belt mounting bolts. It's a good idea to have an assortment of replacement nuts, bolts, and washers to replace the rusty ones on your project Beetle.You should check the engine thoroughlyThe six different air-cooled engines found in Type 1 Beetles are remarkably simple to replace compared to the ones in most modern vehicles. You don't want to start your restoration project hunting down a usable salvage yard engine or shelling out for a remanufactured one, so take some time and look over the motor in the rear of your prospective Beetle carefully.Inspect the valve cover, sump plate, and split between the halves of the engine case for signs of oil leaks. An oil pressure warning light on the dashboard is an indication that pressure is below 5 PSI and you are likely looking at an engine rebuild or replacement as part of your project. If you have a compression test kit and the seller allows you the time to test all the cylinders, this can reveal potentially catastrophic issues like a warped or cracked cylinder head or damaged pistons, rods, or bearings. You should also try and wiggle the crankshaft pulley and move it back and forth; excessive play in the crankshaft could be another sign of worn bearings.
